![]() And I keep a chart taped up in one of the cabinets that show the % of charge for each decrease in voltage, 12.9, 12.8, 12.7 etc.Sustainability: Batteries & Solar | Water | Heatingīatteries | Consumption | Battery Recharging | Solar Charging | How Long Without Sun? | Alternate Charging Options | Solar Regulators | The Bottom Line I noted the air conditioner spiked 39-41 AC amps for a short time when the compressor kicked in so I will probably only use it when on shore power or on generator ( 4000 Watt ) I will continue to use the battery monitor to measure the battery voltage, it matches the voltage on the charge controller within. ![]() I think what I am going to do is just be aware of what appliances I am using at the same time, keep the total amps well under the 25, and if I have any concerns, I can re-check with the AC clamp ammeter. I also divided the 3000 Watt inverter output by 120 volts and got 25 amps, 50 amps when the inverter covers the surges ( 6000 Watts ). using an AC clamp ammeter on a segment of the output line from the inverter, while they ran off the inverter. I measured separately and cataloged the AC current of each appliance I use, refrig, microwave, electric heater etc. And the high current readings compared to the AC current readings I got with a hand held clamp ammeter are what were bothering me. The position of the shunt is in the DC circuit, so it makes sense it would measure DC current. I read that same thing this afternoon and it makes good sense to me. Would this be the " negative load wires " that is mentioned, and what additional loads might need to be switched? Any thing run by AC? Sorry for all the ?s, trying to reconcile the wiring in the diagram with the way the wiring is in my camper. So, do I need to disconnect any wires on the negative post of battery one and connect them to the P side of the shunt? Would this be like re-wiring the fridge in the first diagram so it is connected to the P side of the shunt. At the shunt, I have the cable from 5 th battery negative post connected directly to the B- side of shunt, the other side P is connected by 2/0 cable to the negative of my inverter. There is nothing else connected to the negative posts of any of the last 4 batteries, ( I did add a buss bar between the 3rd and 4th battery and added an additional chassis ground to that buss the 4th battery negative is connected to that buss bar ) I would imagine the original battery ( 1st in line ) is still grounded to chassis. On the last battery, I have a 2/0 cable running to the B- side of the shunt. In my system, I have the original battery then 4 more Agm batteries in parallel. I looked at the diagrams you provided and it raised the ?, the fridge ground was switched from the negative side of the battery, to the P side of the shunt. Sorry if you see a bunch of repeats of your message, I am new to this site and still figuring out how it functions. I am perplexed because I was able to understand how to put together the entire solar system which works great, but can't figure out what the " negative load wires " are. Do I have to connect another wire from the electrical panel to the monitor shunt? They are at opposite ends of my truck camper. My inverter is wired directly to a stand alone ATS, which is wired into the back of the electrical panel There the green wire goes to a ground buss, the white goes to the neutral buss, and the black wire goes to the circuit breakers. ( used on the white or black wire only in the output wire between my inverter and the ATS ) I have viewed countless You Tube videos and I think I have it wired correctly, but I keep seeing the phrase " all negative load wires attached to P side " What are the negative load wires, where do they come from? From what devices or appliances do they have to come from. I am getting seemingly accurate Voltage readings but the current seems to be reading high as compared to the readings on my hand held clamp ammeter. I have installed an AilI battery monitor in my truck camper solar system.
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